The Trango Towers ar a family of rock towers placed in Baltoro ice mass, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. they’re a part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a sub-range of the chain. The Towers provide a number of the most important cliffs and most difficult rock climbing within the world. the best purpose within the cluster is that the summit of great Trango Tower, 6,286 m (20,608 ft). The east face of the great Trango Tower options the world’s greatest nearly vertical drop.
All of the Trango Towers lie on a ridge, trending northwest-southeast, between the Trango ice mass on the west and also the Dunge ice mass on the east. Great Trango itself could be a giant formation, with four classifiable summits: Main (6,286 m), South or Southwest (circa 6,250 m), East (6,231 m), and West (6,223 m). it’s a fancy combination of steep snow gullies, vessel rock faces, and vertical to overhanging head-walls, screw-topped by a snowy ridge system.
Great Trango appearance nearly unclimbable from the Baltoro ice mass however a route of solely moderate issue exists by following AN approach vale to Trango’s base, then by following the northwest ridge we tend to gain the summit snow plateau and also the summit. Overall, the Trango Towers cluster has seen a number of the foremost tough and important climbs ever accomplished, because of the mixture of altitude, total height of the routes, and also the abruptness of the rock. All of the routes area unit extremely technical climbs.
Great Trango was 1st climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell – John Roskelley – Kim Schmitz – Jim Morrissey and Dennis Hennek by a route that started from the west side Trango Glacier, and climbed a mixture of ice ramps and gullies with rock faces, finishing on the higher South Face. the primary successful climb of and come from the East Summit was in 1992, by Xaver Bongard and John Middendorf, a route parallel thereto of the ill-fated Norwegians. These 2 climbs are known as “perhaps the toughest big-wall climbs within the world.
Trango Towers Map
Located at – Baltoro, Gilgit Baltistan, Pakistan.