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Majestic Trango Tower Routes and Successful Expeditions List

The highest point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower, 6,286 m (20,608 ft). Great Trango, the tallest formation in Trango Valley, features 4,396 vertical feet of granite, more than any other face in the world.

The Trango Towers is located on the north side of the Baltoro Glacier, in Baltistan, a district of the Northern Areas of Pakistan. They are part of the Baltoro Muztagh, a sub-range of the Karakorum Range. The Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world. The highest point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower, 6,286 m (20,608 ft). Great Trango, the tallest formation in Trango Valley, features 4,396 vertical feet of granite, more than any other face in the world. This spire is over 20,000 feet above sea level, and combined with Trango Tower (aka Nameless Tower) to the northwest, these formations dominate the horizon on the approach to the larger mountains of K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum IV, and Nanga Parbat. Best climbed between June and September. Trango towers have only been climbed once by Pakistani rock climbers in history. Imran Junaidi and Usman Tariq successfully reached to the summit of Trango Tower in July 2014 and opened a new route with difficulty 5.10d.

List of routes and successful expeditions on the Majestic Trango Nameless Tower:

1. Gran Diedre Desplomado, VI, 5.11 A4, 1100m , Michel Piola, Stéphane Schaffter (Swiss), Patrick Delale, Michel Fauquet (French), 1987 [article: Michel Piola, Danse Trango, “Mountain” 1988, January/February, No. 119, p. 20-24; note: AAJ 1988, p. 250-251]. In August 2006 the route was climbed almost free without three pitches at 5.13b by Swiss team of Francesco Pellanda, Giovanni Quirici and Christophe Steck.

2. British Route, VI, 5.10 A2, 1100m, Malcolm Howells, Martin Boysen, Joe Brown, Mo Anthoine (Great Britain), 1976, first route to the summit [articles: Martin Boysen, Last Trango, “Mountain” 1976, December, No. 52, p. 32-39; J. V. Anthoine, Trango conclusion, AJ 1977, p. 184-185; note: AAJ 1977, p. 266-268)]

3. Claire de Lune, VI, 5.10d A3, 1230m, Gabriel Besson, Claude-Alain Gaillan, David Maret, Frederic Roux (Swiss), 1999, approximately 900-1000m of the route was new, eight days snat on the wall (two fixed camps with portaledges), [note: AAJ 2000, p. 338-339]

4. Spanish Route, ED, 5.10d, A3, 1500m, Clavel, Miguel Ángel Garciá Gallego, Chiri Ros, Seiguer, 1989

5. Eternal Flame, VI, 7b+,A2, 900m, Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler, Milan Sykora, 1989 [chapter in: Andy Fanshawe, Stephen Venables, Himalaya Alpine-style, Seattle 1995; note: AAJ 1990, p. 287-288]. FFA (without 15m of A0): Denis Burdet, Nicolas Zambretti, Toni Arbones at 7c+ , one month in 2003. The A0 pitch was omitted on the right by Iker and Eneko Pou in 2005 at 8a but climbed only on top-rope [note: “Climb” 2006, November, p. 83-84].

6. Slovenian Route, VI, 7a+ 900m, Slavko Čankar, Franček Knez, Bojan Šrot, 1987, FFA: Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Hartmut Münchenbach in 1988 [note: AAJ 1989, p. 252-254]

7. The Crux Zone, VI, 5.10a A4, 1100m, Kim Hyung-il, Yang Ki-heon, Yeon Yang-yun, Kim Pal-bong, Wang Dae-shik, Won Dae-shik, July 2006 [note: “Climb” 2006, November, p. 83

 

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